Fresh, homegrown tomatoes… the reward for hard work that began with seedlings in April.  Unfortunately, problems can (and do) arise.  Fear not- here are some resouces to help diagnose and (in some cases) cure that which ails your tomato plants:

Physiological, Nutritional, and Other Disorders of Tomato Fruit- Stephen M. Olson (University of Florida IFAS Extension)

Diagnosing and Controlling Fungal Diseases of Tomato in the Home Garden- Rutgers NJAES Cooperative Extension (free pdf download)

Common Tomato Fruit Disorders- Cornell University Dept. of Plant Pathology

Tomato Problem Solver- Texas A&M

Beneficial Insects/Organisms- University of Nebraska-Lincoln, Dept. of Entomology

These links should help.  Your local extension office is an additional resource as well (Jefferson County Cooperative Extension Office – UK College of Agriculture).  Good luck!

Some recent summer pix.  Remember running through a sprinkler?

Or, in this case, Lady in Blue.  Two years ago I planted a Lady in Red hydrangea under a Maple tree in the back yard.  Hydrangea generally like acidic soil, so I usedHolly-Tone, an organic fertilizer produced by Espoma for acid-loving plants.  In addition, the same site was previously occupied by two huge taxis, which in addition to dropping their needles, also trapped needles from a nearby white pine.  As a result, the soil is somewhat more acidic than surrounding areas.  The result?  This Lady in Red consistently blooms blue!

I stopped by Walnut Ridge Nursery in Jeffersonville, IN this morning and saw a real treat.  One of the new White Out roses (Radwhite) from Conard-Pyle/Star Roses was sporting some rather unusual coloration.  As the name suggests, White Out is supposed to be white… this plant was exhibiting a range of color from lavender to pink.  The plant is not for sale, and may soon be on its way back to the breeder for further analysis and (perhaps) production.  Good on the staff at Walnut Ridge for spotting this potential new sport of rose… hopefully they’ll get some recognition should it go into production.  Its a stunner, and you saw it here first.

By the way, Walnut Ridge has a great selection of hybrid tea roses, floribundas and climbers from Weeks Roses in 3 gal. containers (not the sickly rose-in-a-box plants you find in box stores).  They all look fantastic- healthy, large and flowering.  If you like roses, stop by and see them- 2220 Dutch Ln, Jeffersonville, IN.

Crape Myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) are a popular ornamental shrub or small tree.  While known primarily for their summer flowers, Crape Myrtles also offer great fall color and handsome exfoliating bark.  There are many cultivars available, ranging from dwarf sizes to tree-type.

Tree-type Crape Myrtles exhibit variable growth habits– some exhibit a vase-like form, while others will develop a more rounded shape.  All are multi-stemmed plants, and are tolerant of heat and dry conditions once established.  Crape Myrtles bloom on new growth, which has led some to butcher or “top” these plants to encourage flowering.  The result is a stunted tree with poorly developed form.   The images below from the Clemson University Extension illustrate the benefits of correct pruning.

The following is a slide show of Tree-Type Crape Myrtles showing flower colors for comparison.  Tree-Type Crape Myrtles can reach sizes between 23-33′, though those dimensions are more likely in the South.  Another slide show (same pictures but with a bit more info) can be found here.

The next slide show is for the Intermediate group of Crape Myrtles, which can reach sizes between 13-20′ (again, larger sizes are achieved in the South).

Photo credits to the U.S. National Arboretum and Monrovia.  Size classifications are from Dirr’s Manual of Woody Landscape Plants… your mileage may vary!

Helios Landscaping is now a participant in the Kentucky Department of Agriculture’s Kentucky Proud™ program.  Although we are not an agricultural producer, we make it a priority to support Kentucky growers and nurseries.  In these tough economic times, it is increasingly important to support local businesses.  We will continue to support our local nurseries, garden centers and growers and hope you will do the same.

Helios is Kentucky Proud!

March is here, and with the last frost date quickly approaching it is time to start seeds indoors.  Before I head to the basement to start this year’s farm, I thought I’d share a tip to help your seedlings along: Chamomile Tea.

Every year, countless gardners see their garden hopes dashed in the flats by damping off– a type of fungal infection that can kill tender seedlings.  Damping off is a problem particularly when starting seeds indoors, and it is encouraged by pooor air circulation and/or soil contamination.  I’ve had good luck with my seeds so far, and I credit this success to the following precautions:

1. Use a fresh, sterile seed starting mix.  Many people use Jiffy Mix.  Others start seeds in perlite or vermiculite.  I use Fafard’s germination mix.  Whatever you do, don’t use soil from last year or outside.
2. Add chamomile tea to your soil mix.  Chamomile tea (and tea in general) appears to have some anti-fungal properties.  This helps avoid damping off.  My formula is to brew 2 cups of concentrated chamomile tea (3 tea bags to 2 cups).  I let the tea steep, and then add it to one gallon of water.  I use the chamomile water to moisten the seed mix before sowing.  I also water with the chamomile solution until the seedlings show their first leaves.  Be sure to use pure chamomile- avoid products that have honey or other flavors.  Organic tea is even better.
3. Set up a fan.  Good air circulation will help prevent damping off.  I use a cheap box fan.  You don’t need a wind tunnel- just some air circulation.

That’s it.  Brew some chamomile and start growing.

An old cornice.  Terra cotta medallions.  Limestone spires.  Cast iron planters.  Junk to some… the detritus of progress.  To others, architectural salvage is pure treasure waiting for new purpose.

The incorporation of architectural salvage is often overlooked when planning a new landscape.  However, these pieces can add a new dimension to a landscape- fusing the past with the present and creating a unique sense of wonder and beauty.  The cornice pictured left once soared above city streets and now, the building long gone, waits for a new purpose.  Perhaps nestled among  hosta,  dicentra swaying nearby… some ivy curling along the weathered stone…. a forgotten piece of the past.

There is always, it seems, a quiet, poetic quality to architectural salvage.  I always wonder how they looked when new, what the building was like, and the people who made them.  Did they ever imagine that cornice or medallion would be part of a garden?  It seems an impossible thought.  But that is what makes these pieces unique and so interesting.

There are many ways architectural salvage can be used in the landscape.  One method, already alluded to, is to incorporate the piece among plantings so it is something to be discovered- almost hidden, as if seen from the corner of your eye.  Perhaps the piece is partically buried, not only to cover the unfinished sides, but to incorporate a sense of time- it has been here a long time.  Another option would be to make the item, such as the limestone medallion pictured here, a center of attention.  The piece could be set upon a natural stone base and viewed as a sculpture.  It could be used as a stepping stone, or maybe even made into a water feature.

Architectural salvage is not limited to carved stone.  Old limestone block or old bricks can be reclaimed and used to build walls or patios.  Old victorian cast iron urns can be used as planters.  Wrought iron decorations or old windows could be added to walls and sections of old iron fencing used as a trellice.  The possibilties are endless, and the result is always a unique, dynamic addition to the landscape.

In this economy most of us are watching our budgets closely.  Perhaps this means putting of that big landscaping project until a later date- you know, that big wipe-the-slate-and-start-over project.  While the big stuff may have to wait until sunnier economic conditions, there are still lots of relatively inexpensive ways to give that old landscape some new juice.

Trimming and pruning. A haircut can go a long way in reviving an older landscape.  Raising the canopy of trees and open up dark corners and let more light in the house.  Often trimming will rejuvenate older shrubs and spur fresh growth.

Mulch is like a fresh coat of paint for your landscape, and the color will make your existing plantings pop and help keep weeds down this summer.  Stick to natural colors- browns and black, and avoid the red (or blue) mulches.  Pine bark mulch offers a nice auburn color and is long lasting.  For the best results, choose a fine textured mulch over chunky stuff.  Also, freshly edged planting bed add definition and clean lines.

Perennials are an economical way to add some color and interest without major renovations.  Brighten a shady area, or inject some color in full sun.  Most perennials last for years, and newer hybrids offer great performance and lower maintenance.  You can split existing perennials and/or transplant the to a new location for a new look.  Perennials can always be moved later on too.  Also, you may want to try some summer bulbs like gladiolus or possibly dahlias.

Annuals offer unparalleled color and flexibility.  They are great in landscaping beds as borders or in planters.  Remember, planters are not just for the patio or deck… they can look good nestled between some shrubs too.  Look into some of the taller varieties to fill that gap where that shrub died last year.

Garden Art. No, not the plastic flamingos or gnomes (though they have their place).  Try visiting Architectural Salvage (on Broadway in downtown Louisville) to find a new use for a terra cotta building medallion, an old urn, or even a section of wrought iron fencing.  Be creative!

Boulders and stones are a great way to add long lasting interest.  Visit some of the local stone yards (Cranes) to see what is available.  Stick to stone that is native to the region (lava rock is nifty, but out of place in Louisville).  Limestone, sandstone, and fieldstone are great additions to any landscape.

Water Features can add interest and soothing sounds to enhance outdoor gathering places.  Pondless features are great for small spaces and are relatively inexpensive and low maintenance.

Plant a tree.  Perhaps you lost a tree during the hurricane or ice storm, and a replacement is due.  Some flowering ornamentals include cherries, dogwoods, redbud and magnolias.  Consider planting a shade tree, such as a maple or oak.  Look into some of our native trees, such as the Kentucky Coffee Tree.  There are some new elm hybrids such as “Valley Forge” that closely mimic the American Elm, which has all but disappeared from our landscapes.  Some unique additions might be the Katsura, White Fringetree, Carolina Silverbell, Buckeyes, and Sweetgums.  Trees are key structural parts of you landscape, so carefully consider placement and the growth habits of your selection.

Finally, try growing from seed.  Many great annuals do best when planted from seed after last frost (Derby Day here in Louisville).  Try Tithonia “Mexican Sunflowers” or even traditional sunflowers to brighten up a fenceline.   Other annuals like Cosmos and Amaranth offer big color an interest.  Sow some Columbine seeds in shady areas.  Also, don’t be afraid to incorporate herbs like basil, oregano and sage in your landscape.

Landscaping does not have to break the bank, and landscaping done well is always a good investment.  Plus, landscaping can improve functionality and add enjoyment to your property.  We can work with almost any budget to spruce up you landscape.

My daughter, son and I will be bringing Thomas Jefferson to the garden this year.  No, not a statue, plaque or a pile of histric documents.  Rather we will be exploring Jefferson’s passion for gardening.  And Jefferson was a serious gardener.  The gardens of Monticello are a testament to Jefferson’s obsession, and he kept detailed notes on the plants he grew.  In fact, our third President was a bit of a spendthrift when it came to buying plants and seeds…. a familiar problem for me as well.

Our objective is to grow a selection of plants that Jefferson would have grown at Monticello.  Most varieties still exist today, though some have been hybridized over the years.  We have purchased the seeds, and will start some indoors this month.  It will take some work, but I think it will be fun.  The real reward will be this summer when the garden is in full swing.  Summer days with Thomas Jefferson… what could be better?

Thomas Jefferson’s Flower Garden at Monticello by Edwin M. Betts and Hazlehurst Bolton Perkins is a good resource to learn more.

Our partial plant list this year:

• Amaranthus… several varieties, including Joseph’s Coat and Love-Lies-Bleeding
• Calendula
• Celosia- Indiana Giant Cockscomb.  Jefferson generally avoided oddities, but he grew this one.  Produces a huge comb.
• Cosmos
• Four O’Clocks- Sometime called “Marvel of Peru.”  As the name suggest, the flowers really do open at 4:00PM.
• Larkspur
• Marigold
• Mimosa- Jefferson grew this- sometimes called the “Sensitive Plant.”  The leaves close when touched.
• Tobacco- ornamental varieties.  Fragrant at night.  Sometimes this was planted under bedroom windows.
• Poppies
• Snapdragon
• Campanula
• Columbine (wild)
• Delphinium
• Foxglove
• Feverfew- great companion plant for roses.  Feverfew produces a pyrethrin, which helps repel insects.
• Hollyhock- looking forward to these!
• Maltese Cross
• Musk Mallow
• Gladiolus
• Probably a few more that I’m forgetting.

We’ll also try to work in a few tea roses, herbs, and vegetables.  My three year old son fell in love with a plant called “Kiss Me Over the Garden Gate” and is fascinated with the idea of Moonflowers and Morning Glory.  While not exactly Jeffersonian, we’ll fit them in.  I’m sure Thomas wouldn’t mind.